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Culinary Empires on the Move with Openings from Brendan McGill and Renee Erickson

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Hungry for news? Welcome to our Friday Feed, where we run through all the local food and restaurant news this week—and maybe help you figure out where to eat this weekend.


Correction: It’s a Famous Original Ray’s Situation

My brother recently sent me a photo of a sign at An Nam Pho in Roosevelt. A few weeks ago, I had noted that the well-liked Vietnamese restaurant opened a second location in Wedgwood, but the sign disagreed. “There’s been some confusion lately,” it read. “We’re the 1st and original An Nam Pho on Roosevelt Way.” It goes on to say they are separately owned and managed from the one on 35th Avenue NE. So, is An Nam just like Smith for Vietnamese restaurants? Not quite. It’s what I like to call a Famous Original Ray’s situation.

In 1959, a man named Ralph Cuomo opened Ray’s Pizza in New York’s Little Italy. When he opened, then sold a second location, the woman who bought it kept the name. As various restaurants expanded, sold, and imitated, they all riffed on the name—Original Ray’s, World Famous Ray’s, Real Ray’s, Famous Original Ray’s.

Closer to home, Toshi Kasahara opened the original Toshi’s in 1976 on Queen Anne. He opened Toshi’s Teriyaki Two in Green Lake in 1980, (managed by a woman named Yasuko Conner, who eventually bought a Toshi’s location and turned it into Yasuko’s), then expanded from there, at one time reaching 17 locations. As he backed away from the business, former franchise locations and other copycats took over: Toshi’s Teriyaki the Original, Toshio’s, Yoshi’s. Today, Kasahara cooks at Mill Creek’s Toshi Teriyaki Grill, but his name lives on at various unaffiliated teriyaki restaurants around town.

All of which leads up to a note that, per the Washington State Department of Revenue, the An Nam Pho on Roosevelt started out registered to the same person who now owns the Wedgwood location. The license for the original location is now in the hands of someone else. In other words, it’s a Famous Original Ray’s situation.

Nesting

Brendan McGill’s Seabird flew the coop last month, and this week the chef explained what’s next for the location and his neighboring storefronts on Bainbridge (Bar Hitchcock and Café Hitchcock). Like the trend we saw in our Best New Restaurants list, it’s all about flexible, multiuse spaces. Kingfisher will open November 15 as an all-day café and boutique, with one section that morphs into a wine bar in the evenings. “We’re aiming for true blue ‘third place’ vibes,” says McGill in an email. Another part of the space will serve weekly ticketed dinners, allowing McGill to continue the high-end, boundary-pushing cooking of Seabird.

Spawning

Speaking of trends from our Best New Restaurants, Pioneer Square continues to re-rise, again. We’ve long known that Renee Erickson’s Sea Creatures restaurant group was bringing a trio of restaurants to the neighborhood’s RailSpur development, but this week we got a projected opening month (December) and a few more details on what’s coming—the descriptions sound like Erickson’s entering her mainstream phase.

Closings

Openings and Reopenings

Oh, BTW, here’s what you missed last time.

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